Monday, May 16, 2011

My first bullfight

Technically, what we think of as a bullfight is known in Spain as una corrida de toros (running of bulls).  There really is no translation for anything to do with fighting.  But then when I think of bulls running and Spain, I think of the other very big tradition in Spain (especially Pamplona) where bulls are set free to run in the street and people run with them.  Confusing!

So here is the big poster for the bullfight that was posted all around Puertollano.  It was the first Sunday of the week of the fair here.


Earlier that day, I went with some friends to the fair to eat and play games with the kids---good times.  But then they said "let's go see the bullfighters!"  I think to myself, ok cool, never been to a bullfight.  Get to check this off my list! 

Turns out, they meant "let's go stand by this back entrance way (pic below) and wait for the bullfighters to be dropped off in their cars and watch them walk into the backstage area."  Still cool, especially since we were right there....but not what I was thinking.





While we were waiting, my friends kept saying "AYYYYY!!!Just wait!  Bullfighters are the most handsome Spanish men!!!"  So the guys started getting out, like this one below, and no offense older Spanish gentleman, but I was like umm where are the handsome men?
Turns out these guys in the yellow suits were the picadores, who are one of the 6 assistants per bullfighter (I had no idea there were assistants!  I thought it was just one guy and a bull!)  So the picadore can be a little older and well, not as in shape (no offense Spanish grandpa), because they only come into action for like 5 minutes.  Their job is to come in on horseback and spear the bull to start the weakening process. 


So as the guys and horses are going into the arena, I asked my friends if they were planning on going to the actual show.  When they said no, I said I was going to go.  They were so shocked...."You're going to go alone?!??!" I said, "Umm I came to this country alone, I think I can sit in a public arena alone for a couple hours :) "  After all, I came to Spain to experience culture and new things---can't get any more Spanish culture than seeing your first bullfight!





Practicing!


Below is the first of the three stages of the bullfight "show".  Here the bull enters the ring to be tested by the matador and banderilleros (helpers) with the magenta and gold capote ("cape"). Basically, this is when everyone teases the  bull.  He runs around from one guy to another, and at the last minute, the guys run behind a wooden wall.  Here this is where the matador first observes the bull, seeing how quick he picks up on things.



Here is the part when the bull is first stabbed.  So hard to watch...


This next stage is when 3 banderilleros each stab and plant 3 banderillas in the bull's back.






This next stage (each new stage begins after bugles are sounded) is when the matador does his tandas , which are a series of passes with the cape.  He is in the ring alone with the bull now at this point.  Each of the different cape actions have different names, styles and technique---another thing I learned! 



After maybe about 6 minutes of these passes, the bullfighter sees the bull weakening even more, and plants his sword behind the neck through the heart, with the intention of killing it.  The good matadores do this on one try.  The not-so-good ones have trouble and have to try 2,3, or 4 times.  This happened with one of the bullfighters (there were 3 total) and the audience booed and got angry because it means the bull suffers longer.  This stage is called tercio de muerte, the stage of death.



This was REALLY hard to watch....everyone's just waiting for the bull to take its last breath and fall over...


After the bull's ear is cut off as a prize for the matador for doing well, the bull is dragged of out of the ring by chains on its horns and pulled off by horses.  SO HARD TO WATCH.  Then the matador takes a victory walk around the ring, saludando a la gente, saluting the people in the stands.








It was hard to see the bull so bloody...


Since my friends didn't want to go with me to the bullfight, I sat by myself next to this old man.  We were friends until he started to cause trouble with people in our section by telling them they aren't allowed to smoke in the arena.  Awkward....

So I was looking around for somewhere else to go since Gramps was causing trouble around me, and I found my friend/conversation class student, Sebas.  He was playing in the band!  I went up to say hello and he said "Come sit up here with us!!!!"   So I said peace out to grandpa and went and sat in the middle of the band.  SO COOL.












Definitely a cool experience, but I can't lie---it was hard to sit through.  Twelve bulls (2 each matador) were stabbed, taunted and killed, in 2 hours.  I'm definitely not being critical of the event, just observing.  I can see both sides of the controversial aspect of this tradition---I understand it is a tradition, an art.  But I can also see where the opposing side is coming from---they say it's animal abuse, who knows, but all I know is it was hard to watch.

Good experience! :)

2 comments:

  1. Did you find out what they do with the toros after they are carried out? I'm telling myself they are butchered and the meat is donated to the less fortunate. :)

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    1. Ah, we know nada about bullfighting. The meat is never wasted, it is always brought to the butcher and he prepares steaks from it. Highly prized and highly priced, too. It is not donated, at least I have never heard about it (but it might have happened sometimes). The meat of the charging bulls is hard as rock due to the amount of muscles, therefore needs to be marinated first. It is mostly used for stews. Sometimes it is even ritually served to the bullfighter who fought the bulls. But mostly, they are only given the bull´s ears and tail (yuck!) as a prize for their bravery. That is, if the president of the corrida for that day decides so. Not every matador gets the ears. Just recently, I mean like a few weeks ago, a top matador Morante ended his career because he did not get ebough ears and therefore keept on being booed off by the audience. Anyway, even if it is hard not to be sorry for the bull (even the bullfighters themselves say so!), you have to understand that ALL BOVINES ARE FOR KILLING. Sad but true. It is a productive animal. Normal bulls get slaughtered at the age of three or four, charging bulls at the age of four to six. And slaughterhouses often treat the animals with a much greater cruelty than the bullfighters. Hard to believe, I know, but it is true. You can read my blog post about it here: https://electricstar13.tumblr.com/tagged/bullfighting

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