My first bullfight

Technically, what we think of as a bullfight is known in Spain as una corrida de toros (running of bulls).  There really is no translation for anything to do with fighting.  But then when I think of bulls running and Spain, I think of the other very big tradition in Spain (especially Pamplona) where bulls are set free to run in the street and people run with them.  Confusing!

So here is the big poster for the bullfight that was posted all around Puertollano.  It was the first Sunday of the week of the fair here.

Earlier that day, I went with some friends to the fair to eat and play games with the kids---good times.  But then they said "let's go see the bullfighters!"  I think to myself, ok cool, never been to a bullfight.  Get to check this off my list! 

Turns out, they meant "let's go stand by this back entrance way (pic below) and wait for the bullfighters to be dropped off in their cars and watch them walk into the backstage area."  Still cool, especially since we were right there....but not what I was thinking.

While we were waiting, my friends kept saying "AYYYYY!!!Just wait!  Bullfighters are the most handsome Spanish men!!!"  So the guys started getting out, like this one below, and no offense older Spanish gentleman, but I was like umm where are the handsome men?

Turns out these guys in the yellow suits were the picadores, who are one of the 6 assistants per bullfighter (I had no idea there were assistants!  I thought it was just one guy and a bull!)  So the picadore can be a little older and well, not as in shape (no offense Spanish grandpa), because they only come into action for like 5 minutes.  Their job is to come in on horseback and spear the bull to start the weakening process. 

So as the guys and horses are going into the arena, I asked my friends if they were planning on going to the actual show.  When they said no, I said I was going to go.  They were so shocked...."You're going to go alone?!??!" I said, "Umm I came to this country alone, I think I can sit in a public arena alone for a couple hours :) "  After all, I came to Spain to experience culture and new things---can't get any more Spanish culture than seeing your first bullfight!

Practicing!

Below is the first of the three stages of the bullfight "show".  Here the bull enters the ring to be tested by the matador and banderilleros (helpers) with the magenta and gold capote ("cape"). Basically, this is when everyone teases the  bull.  He runs around from one guy to another, and at the last minute, the guys run behind a wooden wall.  Here this is where the matador first observes the bull, seeing how quick he picks up on things.

Here is the part when the bull is first stabbed.  So hard to watch...

This next stage is when 3 banderilleros each stab and plant 3 banderillas in the bull's back.

This next stage (each new stage begins after bugles are sounded) is when the matador does his tandas , which are a series of passes with the cape.  He is in the ring alone with the bull now at this point.  Each of the different cape actions have different names, styles and technique---another thing I learned! 

After maybe about 6 minutes of these passes, the bullfighter sees the bull weakening even more, and plants his sword behind the neck through the heart, with the intention of killing it.  The good matadores do this on one try.  The not-so-good ones have trouble and have to try 2,3, or 4 times.  This happened with one of the bullfighters (there were 3 total) and the audience booed and got angry because it means the bull suffers longer.  This stage is called tercio de muerte, the stage of death.

This was REALLY hard to watch....everyone's just waiting for the bull to take its last breath and fall over...

After the bull's ear is cut off as a prize for the matador for doing well, the bull is dragged of out of the ring by chains on its horns and pulled off by horses.  SO HARD TO WATCH.  Then the matador takes a victory walk around the ring, saludando a la gente, saluting the people in the stands.

It was hard to see the bull so bloody...

Since my friends didn't want to go with me to the bullfight, I sat by myself next to this old man.  We were friends until he started to cause trouble with people in our section by telling them they aren't allowed to smoke in the arena.  Awkward....

So I was looking around for somewhere else to go since Gramps was causing trouble around me, and I found my friend/conversation class student, Sebas.  He was playing in the band!  I went up to say hello and he said "Come sit up here with us!!!!"   So I said peace out to grandpa and went and sat in the middle of the band.  SO COOL.

Definitely a cool experience, but I can't lie---it was hard to sit through.  Twelve bulls (2 each matador) were stabbed, taunted and killed, in 2 hours.  I'm definitely not being critical of the event, just observing.  I can see both sides of the controversial aspect of this tradition---I understand it is a tradition, an art.  But I can also see where the opposing side is coming from---they say it's animal abuse, who knows, but all I know is it was hard to watch.

Good experience! :)

Sevilla part 1: LA FERIA!!!

My roommate from Sevilla, Noelia, invited me to go with her to the fair.  It is a huuuuuuge fair that is widely known in Spain.  Most pueblos have fairs (Puertollano had one last weekend), but just to give you an idea of how big Sevilla's fair is....Puertollano had 8 total casetas (big tents) where people could drink, eat and dance.  How many did Sevilla have?  Over 1 thousand.  Yeahhhhh pretty large.  

It was especially fun because Noelia dressed me up in one of her flamenco dresses. Actually I learned it is called a gitano style dress, and the dance is called Sevillana...Sevillana is one of the many different forms of flamenco dancing....I did not know this before coming to Spain!  I thought it was just one style. 

Anyway the fair was enormous, so fun...what was so not fun was that my camera decided to die on me towards the end, so I will be adding more pictures when I get them from Noelia's camera!  My camera had a good life---6 years!!

Here's the huge entrance way to the fair-- la puerta (door) de entrada 

Noelia and me before we headed out to the fair.  Her mom has made a dress every year for her, sometimes more than one per year.  My dress wasn't heavy really, but hers was SUPER heavy.   She has a huge chest full of fun, flamenco accessories.  She has one of those hair pin thingys in about every color. 

Las casetas
Most of the tents are private---you have to know someone to be able to enter.  Some are normal size tents, others are ENORMOUS tents of business corporations with bands, servers, dance floors, etc...  If you don't have a connection to get into one of the tents, you can still walk around.  One of my favorite things was just looking at all of the amazing dresses.  Planning and making your dress for la feria de Sevilla is no joke---go big or go home!!  I didn't see two dresses alike.

Love this.  No seats? no prob....got it covered.

One of my good friends from work, Silvia!!  She and her husband invited us to their caseta.  Her husband is from Sevilla.  Great people!

NOw it just WOULDN'T be right without Spanish tortilla!!!

This, my friends, is what happens when it's a MUST to wear bright red lipstick to the fair.  So funny---Noelia's glass next to her boyfriend's.  The drink is called rebujito---which is also a must at the fair.  It is a mix of Manzanilla (which is a sweeter wine for those of you who are like me----not a wine buff) and 7up.  Dangerously good.  They sell liters of it at the bar haha.

Like I said, more cool pics to come since my camera finally bit it.... RIP camera that I bought before I studied abroad in Costa Rica! YOu did me proud.